Sossusvlei, Namibia/ Climbing the orange dunes

Sossusvlei: hundred+ meter high sand dunes stretch for miles in every direction

Leaving Swakopmund, that quaint seaside village that seemed entirely out of place in the middle of the surrounding desert, we drove south toward Sossusvlei–Namibia’s number one tourist destination, with good reason. When people think of Namibia the image that is conjured up is that of burnt ocher sand dunes, towering hundreds of meters above them in the incessant desert heat. Sossusvlei does not fail: it is home to the oldest sand dunes in the world; some are over 80 million years old.

Driving southwest to Sossusvlei from Swakopmund, the landscape stays mostly the same: dry, seemingly lifeless desert that Namibia is known for. A quick stop at the Tropic of Capricorn allowed us to feel just how scorching the desert sun can be, even early in the day. The dunes of Sossusvlei–colored orange from iron oxide in the sand–are reached through the small town-like area called Sesriem. It is more a collection of lodges and campsites than a proper town, but offers a few shops to buy the litres of water you’ll definitely need when heading out into the dunes. Our dune tour was organized by Sossus on Foot, and cost $35 for a 2-3 hour experience. It seemed pricey, but  this area isn’t really reachable on foot, when you consider that it’s about 5k from the main parking area, through the unrelenting desert heat (we drove through the thick sand piled into the pickup of a truck, rather like a herd of sheep). What was worth the payment however, was the service of our guide “Frans,” a desert-born bushman whose in-depth knowledge of all things to do with the dunes astounded us.

The wind creates elegant wave patterns in the desert floor

To start with, Frans (we think this may be the name he’s adopted for tourists) addressed the myth that the Sossusvlei dunes are constantly moving and shifting location. While this is true of the smaller dunes of the Namib Desert around Swakopmund, the Sossusvlei dunes are anchored in place by the roots of the now-lifeless grass that grows along the slopes. These roots shoot straight down in search of water (which does, miraculously and very rarely, fall) and provide the skeleton around which the dunes take shape. Only the tops of the dunes change and shift with the wind, depending on the season and which way the wind is blowing. Interestingly, this dead grass gives the Sossusvlei dunes the most vegetation of all the Namibian sand dunes.

We are told that survival in the desert is unlikely for those who are untrained. If, for whatever reason,  we found ourselves lost on the 50-kilometer stretch between the Sossusvlei dunes and the Atlantic Ocean, there are ways to prolong life. For starters, the dunes themselves act like a compass: they only will ever run north to south. This is because the wind will only ever blow east to west, from the coast or inland, dependent on the season.

If one knew that he would be walking through the desert, perhaps to hunt an Oryx, there are other tricks he could use to stay alive. It goes without saying that water must be brought on any foray into the desert, but it should be buried rather than carried; this way it lasts longer. And plastic bottles are of no use: they will render the water inside undrinkable. Ostrich egg shells are the best option because they are porous and breathable, and can hold a large volume. After the yolk is removed, water can be filled by way of a tap, or it is possible to siphon water from the ground. Then, seal the hole with an acacia twig and beeswax. It’s remarkably simple yet ingenious; in this way water can be kept fresh when buried in the sand for up to 8 months. Just remember where you buried it.

Dead Vlei. Go there now.

The second draw to Sossusvlei besides the dunes is Dead Vlei, a 900 year old deadwood forest set against the dunes. The trees, though long since decayed, are cemented in place by a thick white layer of limestone that has grown over the sand the trees originally rooted in. It is hauntingly beautiful, a dramatic landscape of blackness, death and fiery light colored sand. Only the sound of the wind and blowing sand disturbs the otherwise ghostly silence.

All the while, Frans pointed out several small critters which, somehow, make this seemingly uninhabitable land their home: golden orange geckoes scampered across the hot sand, and bright blue beetles hid under long since dead desert shrubs. Large ants, bright red but with white backsides, buried in their holes. Even Oryx, large antelope characterized by their long, sharp, straight horns, make these dunes their home. How anything could survive this heat and dryness is unknown to me–I went through a full 1.5 liter bottle of water in the 2 hours we were out. And I was still thirsty.

On the way out we stopped at the famous Dune 45, the only dune that the parks authority allows visitors to climb (for reasons of conservation). Climbing up the spine of the 150 meter high dune takes between 15 and 20 minutes, and the view is simply awe inspiring–sand and dunes stretch as far as the eye can see and again, the only sounds are of the wind whistling past your ears. Paragliders floated around us using the thermals to ascend high into the air as we watched the sun sink behind the dunes. I lay back into the sand and closed my eyes: Namibia is truly a magical country, on the one hand inhospitable and arid, yet at the same time strikingly beautiful and diverse. I love it here more than words can convey.

Dune 45. Some ran, some rolled, some glided down from the top.

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